Project: Du Barry 5913 (1944), Trench Coat, Part 2

Readers,

I had time before my next coat-making class session to make a muslin of my next project, this 1944 trench coat by Du Barry.

Even in this early stage this coat looks promising. (I'd fire the stylist for that flopped-over lapel, but the stylist was guess who.) — Even in this early stage this coat looks promising. (I’d fire the stylist for that flopped-over lapel, but the stylist was guess who.)

Normally I find making muslins a tedious business, but I’ve changed my tune with this one. It’s been exciting to reconstitute a little piece of mid-’40s fashion. Look at those lapels! And those shoulders! So period!

The prominent shoulders bring the eye up, and the center pleat creates verticality.

Some pattern alterations are in order:

Shortening the sleeves
Taking some ease out of the sleeve cap to solve the puckering problem
Reducing the ease in the sleeve cap will make a smooth, handsome shoulder line.
Taking some width out of the back above the waist.
Possibly reducing the space allowed for the shoulder pads
Before reducing the back pattern piece, I will experiment with different thicknesses of shoulder pads.