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Readers,

I had time before my next coat-making class session to make a muslin of my next project, this 1944 trench coat by Du Barry.

Even in this early stage this coat looks promising. (I'd fire the stylist for that flopped-over lapel, but the stylist was guess who.)

Even in this early stage this coat looks promising. (I’d fire the stylist for that flopped-over lapel, but the stylist was guess who.)

Normally I find making muslins¬† a tedious business, but I’ve changed my tune with this one. It’s been exciting to reconstitute a little piece of mid-’40s fashion. Look at those lapels! And those shoulders! So period!

The prominent shoulders bring the eye up, and the center pleat creates verticality.

The prominent shoulders bring the eye up, and the center pleat creates verticality.

Some pattern alterations are in order:

  • Shortening the sleeves
  • Taking some ease out of the sleeve cap to solve the puckering problem

    Reducing the ease in the sleeve cap will make a smooth, handsome shoulder line.

    Reducing the ease in the sleeve cap will make a smooth, handsome shoulder line.

  • Taking some width out of the back above the waist.
  • Possibly reducing the space allowed for the shoulder pads

    Before reducing the back pattern piece, I will experiment with different thicknesses of shoulder pads.

    Before reducing the back pattern piece, I will experiment with different thicknesses of shoulder pads.

I will try on this muslin in class and get feedback from teacher Michele and my classmates.

Now to rifle through the stash for a wearable test fabric.

Bringing back a taste of 1944.

Bringing back a taste of 1944.