Readers,
A few days ago I learned:
- Kenneth King’s pattern adaptation for notched-collar jackets doesn’t work for peaked lapels.
- I had picked a jacket pattern with a peaked lapel.
- I was mistaken to think all peaked lapels look the same. They definitely don’t.
I so wanted to stop thinking about fusing jacket front and under collar pattern pieces into one piece.
I wanted to get down to the business of making a “new school” tailored jacket to pair with the “old school” one I’d made using Smart Tailoring.
But making the jacket any other way would not be “new school,” and I wouldn’t learn what I had set out to learn.
If I gave myself one more chance to learn this technique and succeeded, I’d still have four weeks to produce a “new school” jacket to bring to Kenneth’s class in Cleveland.
So I dug out yet another jacket pattern, one that I was pretty sure had a notched–not a peaked–lapel. It’s McCall 7379. From 1933, the eBay vendor said.
Since only the pieces for View B were left, she listed the pattern for 99 cents. I snapped it up.
Yesterday I laid out the front and under collar pattern pieces.
I sewed a muslin of the back, front, and under collar. It went together easily.
I trimmed the seam allowances off the photocopied under collar piece and laid it on the muslin.
As was expected, the under collar fit just fine, as it should.
Then I ripped out the back piece and laid out the front-under collar combo as flat as I could.
That didn’t mean it laid out perfectly flat, though. There was a ripple, which I could transfer from one place to another but couldn’t remove.
And this is where, once more, I found myself lost in a dark wood. I could not fathom what the rippled muslin pieces were telling me.
So a single, flat pattern piece, eliminating a bulky seam leading to a superior notched collar, remains beyond my grasp for a few more weeks.
In the meantime, I think I’ll sew up something from a tried and true pattern. I could use a change.
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